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May 13, 2010
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Thank you to everyone who has visited my blog and to those who have left comments and questions! It’s nice to know this information actually finds eyes and doesn’t just hang out in cyber space!!
I want to answer two questions that I received from my April 2 blog.
The first question is: “I’m nervous about using a moisturizer with extra SPF in it this summer because it seems like SPF has broken me out in the past. Any suggestions?”
Thank you for the question Carbie! I certainly understand your wariness to try a moisturizer with SPF included. Without discussing specifics of what you have tried in the past, I would suggest looking at the type of sunscreen in the product. There are two common types of sunscreens. There are physical sunscreens (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) and there are chemical sunscreens (Avobenzone, Oxybenzone, Octisalate, Octinoxate etc), and sometimes you can find a blend of both in one product.
It has been my experience that people with sunscreen sensitivities are generally reacting to one or more of the chemical sunscreens. I would suggest trying a physical based sunscreen and see how your skin reacts. As always, if you have any further questions or concerns, please see a licensed professional.
The next question is: “Does more expensive always mean better? Or can you find the same ingredients in less expensive products?”
Thank you for your question MrsPriss! I definitely agree that price can be a bit misleading! More expensive does not always mean better. I have come across products that I thought were outrageously priced and had little or no verifiable science to prove their claims. By the same token though, cheaper products are most likely just as disappointing. It can be difficult to navigate all of this information by yourself and is important to seek the guidance of a licensed professional if you wish to have help in finding what would be best for your skin.
You can find the same or similar ingredients in differently priced products. What matters most, in my opinion, is the grade of ingredient used, the other ingredients the main ingredient is paired with, and how much of the ingredient is used. For instance, I have researched many drug store brands’ ingredient lists only to find that the ingredient that would do what the product claims, is not an active ingredient and/or listed toward the bottom of the ingredient list! (Ingredients are listed from greatest concentration to least.) This is very disappointing since people spend lots of money in the hope of attaining the advertised results!
It is important to realize that topical products are only going to do so much for your skin. Depending on the shape your skin is in, and what you want to achieve, you may need to incorporate professional treatments into your overall skin care regimen that will work in concert with your home care to achieve the look you desire.
Thanks again for your questions! Keep ‘em Coming!
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April 30, 2010
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I know, I know! You don’t really want to hear one more person tell you that you better wear sunscreen and stay out of the sun and tanning beds, right? So… I’ll only say it once. You better wear your sunscreen and stay out of the sun and tanning beds!
Now that we go that out of the way, you may be asking, “How in the world can I get past my “ Winter White” phase with out it?
Enter self-tanners.Gone are the days (for the most part) of sloppy, streaky, orange tans! If it’s been a while since you’ve checked out the self-tanning market, let me tell you…They’ve come a long way baby!
Most self-tanners on the market today have built in color guides. This means that there is some amount of visible color when you are applying the product, ensuring an even, streak-free tan. My favorite is Fake Bake. This product is a rich, chocolate brown color when applied so I never miss a spot! (If you are not completely dry when you put your clothes on, it will get on your clothes, however, I’ve never had it stain anything.) When you take your next shower, the color guide rinses off leaving behind your tan.
After you’ve gotten a sensible golden glow, you will want to enhance it and prolong your color with a moisturizing tan extender. For this, I recommend On the Glow or Summer’s Secret.
 
There are many things other than product selection that go into making a natural looking sunless tan. So here are some of my tips…
Rule #1 - Exfoliate before you tan!!! It’s best to use an exfoliant that lists water as its first ingredient. If you don’t exfoliate, you run the risk having an uneven, spotty tan leaving you with a less than “sunny” disposition.
Rule #2 - Make sure you don’t have any oil or lotion on your skin! If you are in doubt, take a shower. You can exfoliate while you’re at it! Steer clear of exfoliants that contain any type of oil. Oil will create a barrier on your skin that the tanner cannot penetrate.
Tip - The exception to this rule is that you may want to apply a thin layer of lotion over your knees, elbows, ankles, and feet to avoid over absorption in these areas. Joints and feet can be tricky because they are generally drier and rougher than other parts of your body. Dead skin tends to over absorb the tanning product. This can lead to dark patches and a tan that doesn’t look uniform. However, this is not a necessary step. Just be careful to apply a little less product to these areas and you should be fine. Practice makes perfect! Once you get the hang of it, you shouldn’t need to use lotion at all!
Rule #3 - Speaking from personal experience, I recommend that you do your tanning at night while you sleep, especially if you use one with a color guide! The color guide is meant to come off with water and it will come off really easily. Let me just say that you do not want to apply this type of self-tanner before going out on a rainy night. I was unfortunate enough to get caught in a rain shower in a white shirt and of course, my color guide started to run!!! Yeah, it wasn’t pretty…
RULE #4 - Last but not least, use gloves!! Fake Bake comes with gloves for application but otherwise, I find sometimes its not enough to rely on washing them after application. You really need a barrier.
Now if the “do-it-yourself” tan is not up your alley, there is also the option of getting a spray tan. This gives an amazing result and doesn’t require quite as much work on your part. Bear in mind that spray tans are still just self-tanners, so even though the application is different, they still only last about 5-7 days. To get the most life out of your tan, be sure to use the tan extenders we talked about.
Have you had a “terrible tanning” horror story…? I would love to hear from you…
Until next time!
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April 2, 2010
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Hello all! Well, we left off last time discussing exfoliation. The next major step in your daily skin care regime to review is moisturizing!
I often hear people say they do not use moisturizers because “everything breaks their face out.” Now that spring is here and we are approaching our humid, hot, sticky Arkansas summer, I know it can be even bigger stretch to think that your skin could possibly need a moisturizer.
So what’s the big deal about moisturizing anyway?
Your skin needs moisture! It craves it, and it will get it one-way or the other. If you are prone to oily skin you’ve probably been reluctant to use moisturizers, if you’ve used them at all. In the case of not using one, your skin is left on its own to produce the essential moisture it needs. This can result in over production, which leads to oily skin. For many people this just gets worse as the day wears on. If you are a drier skin type, using a moisturizer is probably not something you have to be talked into.
For my oily audience, I have wonderful news! It is going to require a little faith on your part, but if you take my advice, for 9 out of 10 of you it will seem like a miracle! You need to moisturize!!! By using an appropriate moisturizer, you can provide your skin with everything it needs and it won’t be forced to create it on its own…eventually leaving you with an oil slick! I know, its counter intuitive, but adding the right oils will minimize oily skin. Crazy huh?
Ok, now, for those of you who claim that “everything” you’ve ever tried breaks you out. We need to take a closer look at the ingredients in “everything” you’ve ever tried. Upon examination you will often find that the same ingredients (or at least one or two pesky ones) appear in most “everything” - from over the counter beauty products all the way up to department store brands. Of course you feel like you’ve tried “everything!” It is frustrating!! You’ve spent a lot of money trying to find a moisturizer that won’t break you out, only to have me tell you that essentially, you’ve been trying the same product with the same basic ingredients over and over again. They were just touting a different name. (Sigh)
Let me give you some hope! There are some basic, common ingredients that you can look for and learn to avoid. I have a list of 6 main culprits that I tell all my clients to steer clear of.
1. Mineral Oil
2. Lanolin
3. Petrolatum
4. Isopropyl Myristate
5. FD&C Red
6. SD Alcohol
Regardless of your skin type, you should avoid these ingredients. They are clogging to the skin and cause breakouts. Plus, they don’t penetrate the skin well. This leaves our dry skinned friends with no real relief.
Some great choices for moisturizers are Dermalogica’s Active Moist (for oily and combination skin) or Sonya Dakar’s Hydrasoft Lotion for Acne(for those with oily skin and breakouts).
 
My favorite choice for dry skin (or just a great night cream) is Skin Medica’s Dermal Repair. If you have truly challenging dry skin, try incorporating Skin Medica’s Hydrating Complex or Sonya Dakar’s Omega-3 oil for a boost. There is even an Omega-3 oil for acne skin that works like a charm to combat excessive oiliness.
  
Knowing what ingredients to avoid will go a long way toward helping you minimize the laundry list of products you may want to try. As always, if you have especially troublesome skin, I suggest seeking the help of a licensed professional, who can take the time to answer your specific questions. I treat many patients who are the 1 out of 10 that don’t respond well to a new moisture regimen. Sometimes, when I consult with clients like these, I ask them to bring me everything they use in their current regimen (like a medicine cabinet check!) so I can assess what products may or may not be causing the problem. The answer is often hiding in the most unexpected places!
Until next time…
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March 18, 2010
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Thanks to everyone who visited the blog after hearing about it on Today’s KTHV morning show! This is a great way for us to discuss new topics as well as give me ideas about the types of issues you may have questions about.
I had some great feedback on my last post and I wanted to bring it full circle by reviewing the next major steps in any skin care regimen… exfoliation and moisturization!
I often encounter clients who are confused by these two steps. Everyone knows they are important, but people are not sure how to avoid irritating their skin with exfoliation or how to avoid breakouts from moisturizers. SO, unfortunately, most people opt to exfoliate only a few times a month (or never) and avoid moisturizers at all costs.
Sound familiar?
Well, let me make a few suggestions. Today we’ll focus on exfoliation. A key point to remember about exfoliation is that it is an essential part of any skin care regimen and can benefit all skin types if done properly.
So what exactly is exfoliation? As a natural process of the body, we have skin cells that are born, travel to the surface of our skin, die, and slough off. As we age, this process slows, as does the rate at which the cells slough off on their own. When you exfoliate, you “help out” this natural process. By doing this, you encourage new cell growth to take place. Now, that is the nitty gritty… but what you see as a benefit is that your skin loses the dull look it can begin to take on and becomes bright, smooth, and soft. This also allows for better penetration and absorption of other skin care products you use on your skin.
When choosing an exfoliant, first take a look at your current skin care regimen and think about what you actually have time to do. Think about how you can realistically incorporate this step into your routine. For example, I must have an exfoliant that I can use daily so it becomes a part of my routine. Otherwise, I’ll forget when I did it last or when I’m supposed to do it again. So, think about what will work best for you. Then, find an exfoliant that meets these criteria. Having an exfoliant intended for 2-3 times a week usage will be too much for daily use. Likewise, an exfoliant intended for daily usage will not be enough if only used a few times a week.
For all skin types, my #1 pick is the Clarisonic brush. This brush can be used at 3 different speeds depending on your tolerability and is intended for daily use (my fav!). The Clarisonic does an amazing job of cleaning your skin because it uses sonic technology to gently loosen dirt and dead skin. It’s the same technology used in Sonicare toothbrushes! The Clarisonic can be purchased with normal, sensitive, or delicate skin brush heads so it can be customized to suite any skin type. This brush also times your exfoliation for each area of your face so you don’t spend too much or too little time in one spot! How awesome is that! In my opinion, this is a must have tool because, it eliminates the confusion associated with exfoliation and deciding what scrub to use!
If the Clarisonic isn’t your cup of tea, there are other great options out there such as Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant for those “daily” users, or Sonya Dakar Triple Action Organic Scrub for those who prefer the “few times a week” routine.
 
Remember, if you have any questions or have major skin concerns, please always seek the advice of a licensed professional before beginning an exfoliation regimen.
Check back next time when we uncover some need-to-know facts about moisturizers!
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March 3, 2010
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My name is Sara Molsbee and I’m the Registered Nurse at Rejuvenation Clinic Day Spa. I’ve also worked as a licensed Esthetician in the state of Arkansas for over 7 years and I love my job! It is incredibly fulfilling to help others overcome the frustration and desperation caused by problem skin.
During my practice as an Esthetician, I realized that more advanced skin care treatments could really help many of my clients, so I went to nursing school with the sole intent of working in the esthetic industry. My hope is that by starting this blog, I can be a resource for anyone who has questions regarding their skin and skin care. There is so much information available and so many claims on the market that it can be overwhelming to figure out what will work best for you. So, with that in mind, we’ll start with the basics and go from there!
A common question that comes up in consultations with my clients is:
“Is cleansing really an important part of my skin care routine? Isn’t what actually stays on my skin all day the most important?” While I understand the logic behind this, I must emphasize that good skin care starts with cleansing! Today’s skin is under an array of assaults that our mothers or grandmothers never had to deal with! From environmental buildup, to the daily use of sunscreen, to long-wearing makeup, thick cold creams and quick regimens don’t cut it anymore!
Double cleansing is the best way to ensure your skin is healthy, clean, and free of damaging residue and build up! To accomplish this, first, start with a cleansing prep. This is the step that gets skipped a majority of the time. Most people begin their skin care routine with cleansing to get their makeup off. While getting your makeup off is extremely important, that is all that is happening. You’re not actually cleaning your skin. So, the purpose of a cleansing prep is to remove your makeup so that when you use your cleanser, you are actually cleaning your skin and not just removing makeup.
When choosing a cleansing prep, remember that oil attracts oil. Look for cleansing preps that contain light, plant-based oils such as olive, rice bran, kukui nut, and apricot kernel oils. These healthy oils attract and encapsulate the oily sediment that accumulates on your skin and allows it to be completely washed away. My personal favorite is PreCleanse from Dermalogica.
Stay away from pore clogging ingredients like mineral oil, petrolatum, and lanolin. These types of oils can only be removed from the skin by alcohol based products that are overly drying to your skin.
Follow the “prep step” with an appropriate skin cleanser for your skin’s type. As I mentioned earlier, now your cleansing step will be more effective than ever because you’ve prepped your skin the right way!
There are some basic rules to follow when choosing the best cleanser for your skin type. Usually, the gel based cleansers are for combination and oily skin types whereas creamy cleansers are generally best for sensitive and dry skin. There are exceptions to this rule, so if you are having trouble choosing one, I recommend a consultation with a licensed professional.
Another common question I’m approached with is “What does a toner do for me anyway?” Technically a toner is supposed to reestablish your skin’s pH balance after cleansing. It should soothe and “tone” your skin. Toners or astringents containing alcohol will strip your skin of its natural oils and result in a “squeaky clean” feel. While this can make you feel as if your skin is finally clean, this is not a desired state for your skin. This is an indication of the stripping that has occurred, so AVOID alcohol based toners!
It is important that the toner you choose lists ‘water’ as the first ingredient. Following water, you may see an array of ingredients depending on what type of skin the toner is indicated for. Some common, good ingredients are lemon, willow, witch hazel, and even some AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids). Some favorites are Dermalogica’s Multi Active Toner, Sonya Dakar Aromasol Mists, and Skin Medica’s Rejuvenating Toner.
  
Finally, when you select your toner, you may encounter a slight difference in the forms of application available. Toners applied with cotton balls are not the only option these days! Since you now have completely clean skin since starting your new cleansing routine, you no longer need to use a toner that is applied with a cotton ball! Before you started using your cleansing prep, the cleansing step was really just removing your makeup, and your toner was your back up to remove any remaining makeup. Now, you are thoroughly cleansing the skin before ever getting to the toning step, so you may use toners in spray form. They are really handy because most of these can be used throughout the day, even over your makeup! Spray toners can help to reset your makeup as well as re-hydrate and balance your skin for a mid-day freshening! This is really great for air travel to combat in-flight-skin-funk, or in dry weather when your skin can really use the extra hydration. During the summertime, some of these preparations can be refrigerated and provide an invigorating and pick-me-up!
Following these threes steps: prep, cleanse, and tone and you will receive the best results from the rest of the skin care products you use, especially moisturizers, since they will now be able to properly penetrate your skin and work the way they were intended. But that is a topic for another day! You are now one step closer to healthier looking skin!
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